Cruising the South Pacific

The average cruise passenger has changed over the last 10 years. Previously considered to be the domain of the "blue rinse brigade", cruising is now enjoyed by honeymooners, families and active singles and couples in their forties and fifties. This is particularly the case for cruises around Tahiti, where a lot of the activities require a reasonable level of fitness. I discovered the joys of cruising when I shared a four-berth cabin with my parents on a cruise from Fremantle to Indonesia in 2010. Being in my late thirties at the time, I was the youngest and fittest in the cabin, so I was relegated to the top bunk. Tops bunks may be fun for kids, but not for grown women! We actually had a great time, and despite the very rough seas travelling down the west coast of Australia, I kind of fell in love with the pace of cruising.

Different passengers enjoy different experiences, and I have realised that I am not a huge fan of a lot of seas days, or going to the evening shows at night. I prefer a cruise where the ship travels overnight, and I can spend the whole day enjoying the activities on offer at each port. If this is your kind of cruise, then Tahiti is the destination for you.

I cruised Tahiti with Princess Cruises on four occasions. Princess Cruises have sadly sold off the last of their small ships, which means the wonderful itinerary I enjoyed is no longer on offer. Princess still cruise through Tahiti with a stop in Papeete and one or two of the islands in French Polynesia, but most of the islands (apart from Papeete and Raiatea) do not have ports which means the ship must anchor and transport passengers to and from land via a tender boat. This is achievable on a ship carrying 600 passengers, but is not so good on a ship carrying 3000 passengers. By the time you get everyone off the ship, it is time to starting bringing them back again! There are currently two cruiselines which offer excellent itineraries around French Polynesia - Paul Gauguin and Windstar - but they are far more expensive, especially for a solo traveller. Recent quotes have indicated a daily rate of around $900-$1200 per day for a solo cruiser which I think is excessive. It is far more cost effective for a couple, and worth a look, especially when they have specials on offer. There are often better deals for US passengers, including free air fares.

Two of the most expensive things in French Polynesia are food and accommodation. It is not uncommon to pay upward of $400 a night for a room, and I would budget around $80-$100 a day for food. Almost all food is imported, so nothing is cheap. This is where cruising comes into its own. When you take into account that your accommodation and food is paid for, the hefty price tag doesn't look quite so scary.

Cruising is a great option if you are visiting Tahiti for the first time. You get the chance to experience several beautiful islands, which are distinctly different from each other. A common itinerary will include a full day or two in Papeete, and then a day in Rangiroa, Huahine, Raiatea (Taha'a), Bora Bora and Moorea, before returning to Papeete. Rangiroa is further north than Papeete, so there are usually two sea days, one before and one after Rangiroa, which gives you a chance to chill out by the pool, or catch up on the laundry. Most cruises will include an overnight stay in Bora Bora, giving you two full days to enjoy the fantastic sights on offer. Before the cruise, you should acclimatize with a day or two in Papeete (I would recommend the Intercontinental Tahiti), and then travel by fast ferry to Moorea and spend an extra couple of days relaxing before you journey home. 16-18 days is a good length of time to spend in Tahiti, but if you are short on time, you could get away with less.

A handy tip is to become an Intercontinental Gold Ambassador member before you book your accommodation. The program provides extras such as fresh bottled water daily, a welcome gift, fresh fruit, late checkout and a room upgrade. Hotels are very expensive in Tahiti, so what you pay for the program is usually much less than the room upgrade alone. You also get a free weekend night certificate, so as long as you stay two nights over a weekend, one of those nights is free. I have been a Gold Ambassador for five years now, and the last two times I have stayed at the Intercontinental Moorea, I booked a standard hotel room and was not just upgraded to the next room category, but to a deluxe overwater bungalow. There is nothing in this world like lowering the ladder and snorkeling from our own private deck! It is a luxury I couldn't afford, but proof that hotel chains do reward loyalty. If your preference is for the Hilton or one of the other major chains with hotels in Tahiti, I am sure they would offer similar programs.

Now that Princess are no longer offering a 10 night small ship itinerary, I will be spreading my wings on my next trip to Tahiti and going a bit further afield. I still love the main tourist islands, but my short visit to Rurutu last year opened my eyes to other possibilities, and the connections offered by Air Tahiti are safe, regular and very comfortable. If a cruise became available at the right time and at the right price, I wouldn't hesitate to book. It is a great way to see Tahiti and a relaxing way to slip into "island time."